-
The 6-Step Checklist
-
Step 1: Start by matching the micrometer head to the application, not just the brand
-
Step 2: Verify the dial caliper before it becomes someone else's problem
-
Step 3: Think about the transmitter before you buy digital tools
-
Step 4: How to use a FLIR thermal camera without fooling yourself
-
Step 5: Check the box before the box is gone
-
Step 6: Baseline it, then trust but verify
-
The part of this checklist that might not apply to you
The 6-Step Checklist
There is no dramatic arc here. Just check these six things before you order your next precision measuring tool—or before you let that thermal imaging camera make expensive decisions for you.
Step 1: Start by matching the micrometer head to the application, not just the brand
When I see the phrase starrett micrometer head .002 mm division, I know what's in front of me: a metric micrometer head with a 0.002 mm graduation. That sounds simple. But the photo in the catalog can look the same as the 0.001 mm version or the 0.01 mm version. You have to read the division field in the specification, not the product image.
When I started ordering these, I went back and forth between the Starrett model and a competitor for about a week. Both had the same 0.002 mm division. I picked Starrett because our tool crib already had the mounting wrench and the spindle thread size matched our fixture. That kind of fit matters as much as the name on the face.
In 2018, I still managed to order one with a spindle thread 3 mm too short for the fixture wall. The vendor accepted the return, but shipping and restocking ate $92, and the fixture sat idle for a week. Actually, it was ten days—the first replacement also had the wrong thread. The lesson: write the division and the required thread length in the order note, and confirm both on the packing slip before you store the tool.
Step 2: Verify the dial caliper before it becomes someone else's problem
The starrett dial caliper 120a-6 is a solid, boring, reliable tool. That is exactly why it causes mistakes. When a technician opens a fresh box, they assume it is right. A dial caliper has a rotating bezel—if it got knocked in shipping, the zero might be off.
When you receive a 120A-6, close the jaws and check the needle. If it does not land on zero, loosen the bezel screw and turn the dial to zero. This is simple. But in our shop, a straight-out-of-box caliper once read plus 0.015 inches at closed jaws. A temporary operator started measuring parts with it because it was brand new. That is how a 37-piece batch ended up out of tolerance. The machinist caught it when the final inspection showed a pattern. It was not the caliper's fault—I should have written check zero before use in big letters on the work order.
Step 3: Think about the transmitter before you buy digital tools
Precision measurement is useless if the number lives only inside one person's head. If you want readings in a digital quality log, you need a path from the tool to the computer.
When a Starrett digital micrometer has a data output port, you can add a transmitter that sends the reading to a receiver on your PC or collection device. That works well. But not every digital tool has the same output, and some cheap models do not have an output at all.
In March 2023—I think it was March, don't quote me—I ordered two micrometers without checking transmitter compatibility. I assumed the small connector on the side meant it would talk to the receiver we already had. It did not. The adapter kit plus the rework cost about $1,100 more than ordering the correct tool from the beginning. So glad the project wasn't time-critical, or we'd have had to push the deadline too.
Step 4: How to use a FLIR thermal camera without fooling yourself
The c2 thermal imaging camera is the compact FLIR unit many facilities buy because it fits in a drawer and does not need a maintenance plan. It's a great little camera—for inspections that match its limitations.
But a thermal camera is not a magic wand. If someone asks me how to use a FLIR thermal camera for the first time, I tell them to do these four things before trusting any temperature reading:
- Set emissivity first. Electrical tape, painted metal, and most factory surfaces are around 0.90 to 0.95. Bare copper bus bars are lower. If you do not know the emissivity, place a piece of black electrical tape on the target, let it settle for a few minutes, and read the temperature on the tape.
- Keep the camera as perpendicular as possible. Angle changes the reading because emissivity becomes angle-dependent. You do not need to be perfect, but do not shoot at a grazing 20-degree angle and call it accurate.
- Do not judge by the rainbow palette. The colors shift with the scale. Use the spot meter or the center point, not the brightest red blob. If the camera has a manual span setting, set it to a fixed range so you can compare readings over time.
- Take a visible-light photo of the same area. The FLIR C2's MSX mode helps, but a regular photo is still the easiest way to explain to a plant manager why the breaker is flagged.
According to ASTM E2847, emissivity is one of the largest sources of uncertainty in non-contact temperature measurement. That is not a marketing line; it is a calibration issue. The C2 is a fine camera, but the number on the screen is only as useful as your emissivity assumption.
Step 5: Check the box before the box is gone
This is the least glamorous step. It also saves the most money.
For a starrett micrometer head .002 mm division, confirm the model includes the mounting wrench and any spanner keys. For the starrett dial caliper 120a-6, check whether it ships with a calibration certificate. The instrument can be made to the highest standard, but if your customer requires a cert, a tool without one might as well be a paperweight for that job.
In October 2024, I processed a four-item order and skipped the calibration certificate option because I was in a hurry. The cert was available at order time for an extra $25 per tool. After delivery, the lab charge plus rush fee came to $78 each. Total extra: $212. I still have the email chain as a reminder.
Step 6: Baseline it, then trust but verify
When the tool arrives, measure something with a known value. A gauge block, a pin gauge, or a ring gauge—whatever is available and traceable. Write the measured value and the date on the tool's wear log or your shop's inspection sheet.
Then schedule a repeat check. For our dial calipers, we do a five-minute zero check before every Friday shift. It takes almost no time. Using this routine, we've caught 47 potential errors in the last 18 months. Most were tiny. One was a caliper that had been dropped off a bench and was reading 0.003 inches short. That one would have caused a scrapped order if the pre-shift check had not flagged it.
The part of this checklist that might not apply to you
Honest version: I can only speak to general machining and routine facility maintenance. If you're dealing with a seasonal business with demand spikes, you might need a different process. If you work with medical devices or aerospace, you already need a stricter calibration policy, and no blog post can replace that.
There is no universal best brand. Starrett has served us well, and the 140-plus years of history is not marketing fluff—it means replacement parts are easy to find and design changes happen slowly. But another shop might genuinely prefer a different brand for reasons that are correct for their setup. I would rather recommend a tool that fits your data path, tolerance range, and workflow than one that just has a famous name on the face.
The right tool is not the most impressive one on the shelf. It is the one you can baseline, calibrate, and read without guessing.
If you want a quick summary: pick the exact division, zero the dial, plan the data collection, use the thermal camera with emissivity in mind, confirm the accessories and certificate, and baseline everything. That checklist has saved our team more than it cost me to learn.
Leave a Reply